<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>I guess that is part of being a ham and wanting to experiment and build or modify something. When I could buy 10 for $10 and spend maybe 10 minutes to modify one, it is worth my time to save some money. Even with buying 10 and modding them is still doesn't cost what a dmk uri cost.</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">To each their own but I will stick to the ham radio side of things and try it myself first!</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Corey n3fe<br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On Oct 13, 2015, at 9:28 AM, Bryan D. Boyle <<a href="mailto:bdboyle@bdboyle.com">bdboyle@bdboyle.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><div>Why?</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">One is made as a generic part meant to be sold by the millions and assembled by workers making a couple cents an hour requiring time and effort on your part to modify and the other was designed to do a specific job and sold in relatively few numbers for a specific purpose.</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">I've never has an issue with a DMK dongle-- they just work. Way past the thrill of spending time modifying parts to do what it wasn't designed to do to save a few bucks. My time is worth more than $60 or $70 an hour and would rather spend it actually tweaking the system than getting it to run in the first place.<br><br>And I have no financial interest in DMK or anything else around this system. <br>--<div>Bryan</div><div>Sent from my iPhone 6S.<span style="font-size: 13pt;">..No electrons were harmed in the sending of this message.</span></div><div><br><div><br></div></div></div><div><br>On Oct 13, 2015, at 08:44, Skyler F <<a href="mailto:electricity440@gmail.com">electricity440@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">Oh. Well thanks for the replies. I don't see how the URI is 25 times more expensive than the sound fob.</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 6:36 AM, Steve Zingman <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:szingman@msgstor.com" target="_blank">szingman@msgstor.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
That is the Mute LED. If you mute the CM108 there may be no audio.<div><div class="h5"><br>
<br>
<div>On 10/13/2015 8:25 AM, Skyler Fennell
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>To the pin with the red LED</div>
<div><br>
On Oct 13, 2015, at 6:23 AM, Steve Zingman <<a href="mailto:szingman@msgstor.com" target="_blank"></a><a href="mailto:szingman@msgstor.com" target="_blank">szingman@msgstor.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div>
Where do you want to switch it to?<br>
<br>
<div>On 10/13/2015 8:08 AM, Skyler
Fennell wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite">
<div>Ok, I'll just solder the pin, just making sure. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>It's weird you can't switch the gpio pin for PTT in
software.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>On Oct 12, 2015, at 11:54 PM, larry <<a href="mailto:larry@n7fm.com" target="_blank"></a><a href="mailto:larry@n7fm.com" target="_blank">larry@n7fm.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<div>Skyler, Short answer is
No!<br>
<br>
My experience with the sound fobs that look similar to
yours , You will still need to solder to Pin 13 to get
the PTT logic. No way around that as on the CM-108
chip Pin 13 is not connected to anything so no place
else to get that logic other than soldering a wire to
the pin.<br>
<br>
As for the COS signal (CM-108 Pin 48) that can be
gotten from the left side of the volume down switch
SW1 if you want to avoid soldering the COS line to Pin
48 on the sound chip. CTCSS can be retrieved from the
right side of volume up SW2<br>
<br>
The Green LED is still the heartbeat indicator. <br>
The Red Led on the Fob is <b>NOT</b> the same as the
PTT LED indicated on the modification schematic.<br>
<br>
In fact if you go here <a href="http://www.crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_modification/" target="_blank">http://www.crompton.com/hamradio/usb_fob_modification/</a><br>
<br>
You will find a good description of the connections on
that particular fob.<br>
<br>
Larry - N7FM<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 10/12/2015 06:23 PM, Skyler Fennell wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre>I previously got the CM108 sound fob from startech and had to solder to the tiny pin.
With this one
<a href="http://ebay.com/itm/291156304476?_mwBanner=1&varId=590306532025" target="_blank">http://ebay.com/itm/291156304476?_mwBanner=1&varId=590306532025</a>
It looks like it already has both LED's installed. I am assuming the red led is the same as the transmit LED.
If this is so, does that mean I don't have to solder to the tiny pin on the CM108 and I can just drive a transistor with the same wire as the LED for PTT?
Skyler KD0WHB
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</blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><font face="arial narrow, sans-serif" color="#38761d">Skyler Fennell</font><div><font face="arial narrow, sans-serif" color="#38761d"><a href="http://amsatnet.info" target="_blank">amsatnet.info</a></font></div><div><font face="arial narrow, sans-serif" color="#38761d">KDØWHB</font></div><div><font face="arial narrow, sans-serif" color="#38761d"><a href="mailto:electricity440@gmail.com" target="_blank">electricity440@gmail.com</a></font></div></div></div>
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